| DIY Drum Shields [message #147922] |
Tue, 05 September 2006 15:46  |
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 Tom Reid
Messages: 7121
Registered: May 2004
Location: Indiana/Chgo Burbs |
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Anyone have experience with what works and what doesn't?
I was thinking 3 5'X4' plexiglass sheets (how thick?) with a couple of piano hinges. Then maybe a couple absorbant panels for behind the drums.
Must be mobile, portable.
[Updated on: Tue, 05 September 2006 15:46]
tom
What does Buddha do on his day off?
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| Re: DIY Drum Shields [message #148005 is a reply to message #147922 ] |
Tue, 05 September 2006 21:56  |
Mark Meagher
Messages: 587
Registered: May 2005 |
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You might also try clear polycarbonate, known by the trade name of Lexan. It costs more than plexi but it is much more impact resistant than plexi (acrylic). Not that anybody will be lobbing mortar shells toward the drummer or anything but it could get stepped on or a piece of gear set or dropped on it while it's horizontal. I guess it's called combat audio for a reason.
Life isn't a destination, it's a trip. Just keep your hands and feet inside the ride.
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| Re: DIY Drum Shields [message #148053 is a reply to message #147922 ] |
Wed, 06 September 2006 07:19 |
Josh Oswald
Messages: 585
Registered: March 2006
Location: Montgomery, Alabama |
Has No Life |
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Hey Tom, I built a drum enclosure for our church a few years back and I really wish I had done some research before I set out on the project. I purchased 5 4' X 8' sheets of 1/4" plexi from a local glass shop and 16 4" removable pin door hinges. I made no cuts to the sides, so when completed this monster stood 8 feet tall in our sanctuary. It was treated with Auralex 4" studiofoam wedges from the bottom up to about the 4 foot mark (just high enough so the drummer could still see over the top). Once I had it set up, I took some measurements for a top and purchased two more 4' X 8' plexi sheets and 4 more hinges. I bolted the two pieces together and then trimmed the edges so that the top only hung over the sides about 1" - 1 1/2". I used my circular saw with a fine toothed blade turned around backwards to cut/trim the top. It basically melted through the plexi; I had to come back with a utility knife and chip away some of the melted plexi that didn't fall off. Anywho, it was a beast to put up and take down, but it served us very well. From a sound perspective, it gave us great presence in the toms and kick drum, but micing overhead for the cymbals was tough due to all of the room up top for sound to bounce around in.
Total cost for the project was about $785.00.
$75 x 7 for plexi = $525
$6 x 10 for 2-pk of hinges = 60
$200 for foam
Hope this helps.
Oswald
Evangel Temple Church
Montgomery, Alabama
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| Re: DIY Drum Shields [message #148067 is a reply to message #147922 ] |
Wed, 06 September 2006 09:52 |
Mark Meagher
Messages: 587
Registered: May 2005 |
Has No Life |
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In my experience the easiest way to cut plexi without special tools is to score it with an angle blade on a utility knife and snap it. If you are using quarter inch you'll have to score it several times to get the cut deep enough to snap.
You can also do it with a veneer/plywood blade on the circ saw but only cut it about half-way through depth-wise, then score it and snap it. I run the blade with the teeth in the normal direction. It can melt if you go too slow, or chip out if you go too fast.
If you are setup shop-wise, a v-groove bit in the router is the tits for this. Set the depth slightly more than half way, lay a piece of masking tape down so that it doesn't splinter and pour the bit to it. However you do it, take care because it can sliver and shard when it breaks. When you snap it, do it over a straight edge, that'll help keep a nice clean edge.
Plexi can also be heat formed with a heat gun and the proper radius template. Forming is great for making corners on edges.
There you go, Plexi 101. If you decide to DIY, you are armed and dangerous.
Life isn't a destination, it's a trip. Just keep your hands and feet inside the ride.
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| Re: DIY Drum Shields [message #148300 is a reply to message #148205 ] |
Thu, 07 September 2006 08:44 |
Josh Oswald
Messages: 585
Registered: March 2006
Location: Montgomery, Alabama |
Has No Life |
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Hey Sharyn,
When we first put the cage up, we hadn't made the top yet. We went topless for a few Sundays, and it became apparent that we needed a top.
In our youth center we have one of those ClearSonic sheilds with an angled top. It does an ok job, but it really only redirects the sound; it doesn't contain it.
Evangel Temple Church
Montgomery, Alabama
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| Re: DIY Drum Shields [message #148316 is a reply to message #147922 ] |
Thu, 07 September 2006 10:30 |
Scott Van Den Elzen
Messages: 277
Registered: September 2005
Location: Eugene, Oregon |
Has No Life |
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As far as behind the drums goes... I'm told bales of pink fiberglass work wonders -- just the way they come from the home improvement center. I've often wondered how it would change the room dynamics to stack them two or three high across the back of the stage. Anyone here ever try it?
They're ugly, but nothing some black drop-cloth (fireproof!) wouldn't fix.
Scott
Audio Idea
"No comments, please. (Soundguys HATE feedback!)"
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| Re: DIY Drum Shields [message #148317 is a reply to message #147922 ] |
Thu, 07 September 2006 10:35 |
Duane Massey
Messages: 2032
Registered: January 2006
Location: Houston, Tx |
Has No Life |
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Did extensive work with plexi back in the disco daze (1/2" white plexi is not fun to move around, I promise!), and I've built a couple of drum shields in the past few years. Used 1/4" and 3/16", and both seemed to work acoustically fine.
You can cut plexi with a carbide blade quite easily, but make sure you use a straight-edge clamped to the plexi, as "free-cutting" can cause issues. If you use piano hinges, make sure to use flat washers on the other side of the plexi (as large as possible) and use a sharp drill bit.
Rounding the corners is a good idea, and smoothing the edges with either a router or a bit of sanding is a definite must.
You can probably get the supplier to cut the pieces for you (might be a small charge, but worth it if you don't own a good carbide blade), and I would not go any wider than 30" if you're gonna be moving them a lot.
Duane Massey
Houston, Texas, USA
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